Jeans: Here’s the Skinny

Contributing writer Latashia Figueroa   

  I love the fit of Lucky Brand and Rich & Skinny Jeans. I own one pair of each. A pair of jeans should be a staple in everyone’s wardrobe. Women, can dress them up with a great pair of heels or dress them down with flats or sneakers and a tee. They also show off our, uh, assets, so to speak.

     Do I think Lucky Jeans and Rich & Skinny are overpriced? Well that depends. As mentioned in my previous article Shop Wisely My Friends”,I have worked in the fashion industry for fifteen years. What makes one pair of jeans cost $45 and another $105? It’s no surprise that I say fabric, most of you fashionista’s know that already. But the real key to a great fit, especially a pair of jeans, is the specs, in other words, the fit. I have worked with denim fabrics bought for J.Crew and Nordstroms as well as the less expensive retail chains. Did you know that the same factories JCrew uses are often the same factories less expensive retail chains will use? Here’s the difference: JCrew, Lucky Brand Jeans and other well-known higher end brands almost always use a fit model before making a pattern for the jean.

     This fit model is either a perfect size 2 or 4 and she is measured for hours in detail before the specs and pattern is made and sent to the factories. Based on this fit model (Miss Perfect Size 2 or 4) the specs are graded up and down (size 0-14 depending on the brand) according to the fit the technical designer wants to achieve. These jeans tend to look good on almost everyone because they are fitted well.  The fit is achieved because there is an actual person being fitted for a particular style and size.
 
     Then the fabric is purchased. For denim, weight and wash is key, as well as how much cotton and spandex is in the denim. Too much spandex (over 3 %) tends to be cheaper.

     Less expensive retailers often use block specs.  These specs are a general specification of the average woman (based on a headless mannequin whose legs are always a lot shorter than mine). Because these less expensive retailers are on a tighter budget and aim to achieve a markup of 35% or higher, they will not pay a little more for length or a live fit model. So the jeans for the less expensive retail chains, are not as appealing as those of JCrew or Lucky Brand. Also, the denim used for lower end retailers are often lighter in weight (8oz instead of 10oz).

      Can these factories achieve a great fit for the lower chain retailers? Absolutely, if the manufacturer is willing to pay a little more. A few years ago, I worked for an average priced denim brand company that was able to get a well-known celebrity spokesperson to pose for a billboard wearing the jean and displaying the Brand name. The company went to great lengths to make sure these jeans fit the celebrity’s every curve (which is what she is known for). How would they achieve this using cheaper denim? The specs were altered based on a curvy live fit model whose measurements were close to the celebrity’s (instead of the short legged headless mannequin.) The altered jeans fit perfect. The celebrity donning the less expensive brand jeans looked fabulous on the billboard that hung above the streets of Times Square. But they did not fit so well for the average consumer bringing over 20%returns. Why? The average consumer thought these jeans would fit them the way they fit the celebrity on the billboard, little did they know the specs used for them (the block specs) was not the same used on the celebrity. Lesson here, don’t buy something because a celebrity endorses it.  They are paid well to look good.

     I am not an advocate for expensive name brand jeans or name brand labels. I believe you can be stylish on a budget without having to display label names. But as I stated in my previous article, if you do not buy clothes that fit you properly you are throwing your money away. Lucky Brand Jeans and Rich & Skinny fit me perfectly and that’s why I spend the money for them. Not because of the brand name. I honestly wish I could find a  pair of less expensive jeans that fit me the same as my staple brands but, they don’t. If you are a person who could wear jeans from these less expensive retailers, good for you, wear them well, this article is not for you. But if you are like me and the jeans from these retailers make you look like Michael Jackson during the Billie Jean days (high waters) and the rise (basically the inseam) is a little too close for comfort, than you should look into buying a pair of jeans that may be a little pricier. Remember it’s not overpriced if your assets look right!

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I have more than a few theories on style. LadyBowTie is a site designed to celebrate those thoughts on fashion, beauty, and fearlessness. LadyBowTie encourages positive self-esteem and freedom of expression through personal style. It also encourages a healthy relationship between fashion and your wallet. And last but not least, LadyBowTie is here to educate on aspects of the fashion and beauty industry through style news, street-style pics, interviews, trend/forecasting, articles, weekly series, and readers’ suggestions. ~Cori a.k.a. LadyBowTie

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